A friend of mine did something most people only talk about.

He left America. Moved to Portugal. And this month marks four years since he retired there. He is in his early 50s and he is raising a family, living slowly, and genuinely loving his life.

I know. I know. But it is real. It is possible.

He invited me to come visit him. One condition: avoid mid-July through August. His exact words were something like, "that is when all the tourists invade."

Now, this guy is chill. He does not complain about much. So when he specifically says that, it means something.

That conversation stuck with me. Then I started digging into overtourism trends across Spain and Portugal and what I found is what led me to write this newsletter.

Here is what is happening.

Spain is one of the most visited countries on earth.

Last year, 92 million tourists showed up. That is more than double Spain's entire population. And the locals? They have had enough.

In Barcelona, Palma, and Granada, residents took to the streets to protest. They carried signs. They blocked tourist buses. One hospitality worker posted a PSA that went viral. She called the situation "a nightmare."

Here is a true story that illustrates what I am trying to get across.

Imagine you live in Barcelona. You grew up there. Your family has rented the same apartment for 20 years. Then Airbnb takes over your building. Your neighbors leave. Your rent doubles. You can barely afford groceries but tourists are everywhere, taking photos of your front door.

That is not a hypothetical. That is Tuesday in the Gothic Quarter.

So, what does this mean when it comes to planning your Spain trip?

It means the rules are changing. And fast.

What is actually happening

Starting April 2026, Barcelona is raising its tourist tax. If you stay in a luxury hotel, you are looking at up to €15 per night in combined taxes. Holiday rentals like Airbnb now carry a €12.50 per night tax, double what it was before.

Malaga already froze all new short-term rental registrations across 43 neighborhoods.

Barcelona plans to phase out short-term apartment rentals entirely by 2028.

This is not a blip. This is Spain drawing a line.

But here is the catch...

None of this means you should skip Spain. It means you should visit smarter.

The travelers who are making the situation worse are not the ones who want to. They just do not know any better. They show up in peak summer, book the cheapest Airbnb in the most crowded neighborhood, eat at the tourist-trap restaurant on Las Ramblas, and leave without spending a euro at a local business.

Here is how to do it differently.

1. Go in September or October

Summer is wall-to-wall tourists. September and October are quieter, cheaper, and honestly more enjoyable. The weather is still great. The crowds are not.

2. Stay in a locally owned hotel 

Skip the international chains and Airbnb rentals in residential neighborhoods. Your money goes directly to local families instead of a hedge fund managing 300 units.

3. Get out of the main tourist zones

The Gothic Quarter and Las Ramblas are not Barcelona. The Gracia and Poblenou neighborhoods are. Wander there. Eat there. That is where the real city is.

4. Take the train

Barcelona connects to Madrid, Seville, and Valencia by high-speed rail. Skipping the domestic flight is better for the environment and honestly a better experience.

5. Go somewhere else in Spain

The Costa Brava is a short trip from Barcelona. The Alentejo region in Portugal is a few hours away. Medieval villages in Andalucia get a fraction of the tourists that Barcelona does. Same country, same food, none of the chaos.

The truth is, Spain wants tourists. It just wants tourists who treat it like a place where real people live, not a theme park.

You can be that traveler. It actually makes for a better trip.

Keep traveling, 

Andrew

Has overtourism ever changed where you decided to go? What did you pick instead?